Category: Dog Training Articles

Today I thought I would tackle the mystery that is called loose leash walking.

It is something almost everyone goes through once in their dog-cohabitating life. Many struggle for years, many give up, and many wipe out. And still, there is the dog: straining with all her might, treating you like some sort of wagon or cart. That’s okay. It’s normal. I’m sure you’ve noticed you’re not nearly the only one with such an eager pup at the end of your leash. Since I’m hired primarily to help dogs who have bad leash behavior, I wanted to write a blog about this. And there is one word that I can’t say enough when tackling this issue: relationship. A dog, like any sentient being, needs to have a relationship with someone before she cares about them substantially. Especially more than the squirrel, ground hog scent, pee from the big Doberman who ate a ribeye for dinner yesterday and is also in heat. It’s like if you had to care more about an 6 year olds school play then sitting in a hot tub with a bottle of champagne, chocolate mousse, a glorious novel, and possibly some $500 dollar bills floating around. But you would… if you cared about that kid.

Relationship building activities is a whole other blog, but it can definitely be summarized with: quality time. You need to spend quality one-on-one time with your dog doing fun and educational things. This is what having a dog should be about. Nothing else. Examples are: games of tug, games of fetch, teaching tricks, practicing basic obedience, grooming, walking together, hiking together, brain games, agility, flyball, search and rescue, sheep herding, scent work, and yes, walking on a leash. Unfortunately for you, leash walking is the best way to create and solidify a relationship with your pup. Dogs love walking, and whoever they are walking with become their family. It’s a primal, genetic thing.

Now, just because your dog is pulling, does not mean you and he do not have a good relationship. But it does mean you haven’t fine-tuned it. Put it to the test, so to speak. This is where my second favorite work relating to loose leash walking comes in: brain. You have to use that relationship to train your canine partner’s brain to realize that being next to you is THE place to be. Think of it as your Fan Zone. The area around your legs is where your dog should want to hang out while walking with you on a leash. And using relationship and brain training, you too, can be the envy of the neighborhood.

Which brings us to exactly how to “brain train” that relationship. The first thing you need, is a 4 - 6 foot leather (or material) leash. No flexi leashes. The second thing you need is your dogs favorite treat ever. Usually this will be hot dog, cheese, chicken, or beef. Small little pieces. You will never, I mean never, leave home without a bag of this stuff on your hip in a treat bag. Not ever.

Oh, and the third thing you need is lots of precious patience combined with a “we’re gonna have fun!” attitude.

If your dog is absolutely a serious leash pulling enthusiast, you are going to have to start in the house with your treats and your dog on leash. All you’re going to do is call her name, and when she looks up at you, give her a treat. Do this with a loud and jovial voice. Start moving about, circling, backing away, etc. Do this for 5 minutes, then take a 15 minute break. Repeat.

When your dog is hard to back away from, and is just looking intently at you most of the time, you’re ready for the real world. If you live in a very loud, busy, smelly, food-littered place, please drive your dog to some quiet and calm neighborhood, where she is less likely to be tempted by all the doggie goodness.

When your dog pulls out in front of you, you will call her name (or you can use “pup pup pup!!”) and turn around and go the other way. She’ll have to follow you at some point, and when she catches up (enters the Fan Zone), say “good girl!” and give her a treat. Keep walking, and keep giving her treats every few seconds that she is choosing to stay in your Fan Zone.
Repeat.
For weeks.
You can also be mean and purposely try to turn and go the other way when she is not pulling. She should stay with you. If she doesn’t, do the drill.

See what I mean about patience? You’ll need that. And practice. And really great treats.

Hand-in-hand with this, is maintaining rules and boundaries at home, and practicing basic obedience. Train that brain!

Dog training isn’t easy. I tell my clients all the time that I paid thousands of dollars to Starmark Academy to learn what I know. And that they can start charging their friends to train their dogs after I am through with them! 😉 It’s always helpful to look at the most frequent mistakes people make when they do things. Mistakes are GOOD. We need them. I am also always telling my clients not to judge their success on what they are seeing in the moment, and to have FUN, not get hung up on mistakes. That said, it’s great to bring these elements below into your awareness when you’re trying to train your dog.

1. Not Being Consistent
Dogs learn through consistency: the same thing happening at the same time, in the same place, in the same way…. every time. This is how they figure out what to do and what to expect. This is why consistency is so important. When things are different, it confuses a dog, because they are so wired on cause and effect. Your dog doesn’t know someone is old and they can’t jump on them, or you’re dressed up for a wedding, etc. So you can’t really get upset with her if you are not consistently correcting her jumping behavior and NOT letting her jump on anyone ever. Imagine how confused you would be if sometimes you came into work late and your boss didn’t care, but then sometimes she/he got all uppity and gave you the stink eye! Another example is if your dog loves to paw at you for treats (I see you!) and you consistently reply to her attempts with… treats, then she will learn that if she paws at you, she will get treats! If you want to reverse this, then use consistency again. Consistently DON’T give her treats when she paws at you and consistently give her treats when she leaves you alone and lies down. The more consistent you are, the faster your dog will learn. Write out your consistency rules and post them on the fridge so everyone in the house will abide by them and your dog will be set up for success.

2. Saying a Command More Than Once
This is a huge, big, always-going-to-happen training mistake I run across. And it’s very okay. All of us dog trainers did the exact same thing when we were starting out. It’s very much a brain training game to learn how to not say “sit” 12 times. It’s also a primate thing. Primates are the only ones that use repetition, at increasingly loud volumes, to communicate. If a chimp isn’t getting what she wants, she’ll start getting louder about it, and repeating her demand. So, don’t be hard on yourself about this one. But DO try to remind yourself not to repeat your commands. This also relates to consistency. If you consistently follow through after saying your command once, your dog will learn that he will only be asked once, so better go ahead and do it. In dog training school, my teacher said it is like a parent calling their kid home for dinner. They call and call, but the kid knows their parent doesn’t really mean it until the 8th time. They won’t come searching for them with an angry face until the 8th call. Your dog will learn this too! Only say the command once, then follow through….

3. Not Following Through
Following through is when you take action to ensure you get the reaction you are looking for. An example of this is “sit.” You should ask for sit once, then give your dog about 3 seconds to react (actually sit). If he doesn’t sit after 3 seconds, either lure him back into a sit, or curve his bottom down. This is actually teaching your dog what you want him to do when you say the word “sit.” Sit is not usually a natural position for dogs. It’s a bit rigid. Imagine if someone came to you and said “anja!” and dangled a cupcake over your head. You would be totally confused. The curving of the butt, or luring back so that the dogs legs will squat, is what is needed, to make a connection between the word and the desired behavior/position.

4. Poor Timing
Timing is about rewarding the desired behavior (or close to it) within a small enough amount of time for the dog to make a connection between that behavior and the reward. Trainers will differ on the length of that time, but I have noticed anything over 3 seconds is too long. A clicker is a great way to ensure that you are rewarding your dog within 3 seconds of the desired behavior, so be sure to get a clicker (maybe several) and condition your dog to the sound. A verbal marker, like the word “yes” is a good way too. You can combine the clicker and verbal marker, no problem.

5. Not Avoiding The Situation
This is one you may not see on a lot of other lists of common training mistakes. However, it’s huge. Many clients will say “What do I do when we see a dog/cat/person and my dog freaks out like a wild animal?” And I say: turn and go. “Turn and Go” is a great training term. It’s a nice mental fallback for those “wild animal” moments when you’re shocked and the other creatures are shocked or just as wild! After the first few seconds of shock, remember “Turn and Go” and… turn and go!! After a while, it will become your instinctual reaction to any loud or uncomfortable situation. For example, when I’m walking a dog I don’t know very well, and I see an off-leash dog, I turn and go, because I don’t know if that off leash dog is going to come dashing over, and the dog I’m walking is going to react. Or if I’m walking along enjoying the beautiful day, lost in my head, and all of a sudden there’s an outburst of Chihuahua yaps, I just pull my dog over and go. If you don’t like the situation, just turn and go. There’s no need to stay there and let things get worse and worse and louder and louder. Many negative outcomes could be avoided if more people kept this in mind.

I tell my clients that this knowledge will seep into their minds and bodies over time. And to let a few months pass by before they decide that training isn’t working. As long as there is daily practice. Training your own dog absolutely will change your life for the better!

There are certain items I ask my clients to get ready before training in order for us to hit the ground running. If you want to get your money’s worth and really do your best at training your dog, these are the items that will help with that. You can find all of these at any pet store, and I support you supporting local independent pet stores like Tomlinson’s and Healthy Pet.

1. Raised Place Bed

Having a raised bed helps define the boundary of the bed for the dog. Teaching a dog the “Place” command is pretty much the greatest thing you can teach your dog. This is when the dog is taught to go to the bed, get onto it, and stay on it until released. There are many different brands and qualities out there. Measure your dog then compare it with the size of the bed. The bed should be a few inches bigger than your dog. I found a cheap one that works here.

2. Slip Lead

This is a lead that slips easily over your dogs head. Then you push the leather holder down so it stays fitted around the neck.

3. Clicker

Clickers are markers for saying “Yes! I like what you JUST did.” They are more audible and precise, which is why they can be useful in training. I like to teach all dogs some clicker tricks - such as Touch and Spin. It’s not about having a dog that can do cool tricks, it’s about what is learned during the learning process - that doing what is asked is fun!

4. Treats

Please have treats ready when your trainer comes over! I like to buy the deli loaf and chop them really small. This is the most cost effective. You can get them at any pet store. If your dog will work for his regular kibble use that. Otherwise, you may need to try something a bit more tasty to her, like meat, hot dog, or cheese. You can mix these in with the kibble as well if you are worried about weight. The treats need to be small so your dog won’t fill up on them quickly and decide she doesn’t want to work anymore!

5. Treat Bag

So you will need a treat bag to put those treats in! There are some good ones out there, that clip onto your waistband. I use a fanny pack. This is really helpful to have, so please do get one, as they aren’t expensive!

It’s Texas. It’s H-O-T in the summers. So leaving Pup in the car isn’t an option in June, July, and August. Unless you don’t mind leaving your car running and a note explaining that your car is running so you won’t get a busted window. But Austin is the “dog friendliest city in the US” right? Not so quick. While you can bring your dog into a lot of retail stores, you can’t bring them into grocery stores, or restaurants or, unfortunately, almost all coffee shops and bars.

There are only so many 7am and 8pm hikes I can do in one week. Some days, especially weekends, I just want to go read or meet up with friends or work outside my tiny apartment and bring my dog with me. Because why have a dog if you are going to leave her at home all the time?

I had my 9 pound terrier in a sling bag and was quite spitefully kicked out of Wheatsville and Costco the other day. Actually, he was entirely enclosed in a zip-up carrier bag when I tried to go into Costco. And Costco just serves pizza and hotdogs in one corner of their vast wasteland.

I emailed the Health department to try to get a copy of the ordinance that states that dogs are not allowed inside buildings that serve food. I was sent a copy of the ordinance that allows dogs to be on patios. I’ve asked again. I’ll update this once/if I get a reply. Because I’m really curious what the reasons are. States can draft their own health codes, so I would like to know what Texas’ reasons are for prohibiting dogs inside.

Dogs in Europe are allowed in all pubs and bars and coffee shops and retail stores, and in France, I’ve seen them in full on restaurants.

Why are dogs not allowed in buildings that serve food in the US? Because, let’s acknowledge this, humans are gross. They don’t all wash their hands, they have hair that falls out, and spit when they talk. Kitchens aren’t always cleaned well. There are mice and rats and that one bug I will not name. I’ve worked in restaurants, I have seen some things, and wondered why I continue to eat in restaurants! Eating in a restaurant where humans prepare your food is going to be the greatest risk to your health in a restaurant. Dogs are not a health threat. Because these are American dogs we are talking about: the much-loved, over-vaccinated, over-groomed, and babied.

The first argument may be dog hair. But how is human hair any less migratory, abundant, or gross than dog hair? Also, do you notice dog hair in your food when you eat at home? Aren’t the kitchens behind closed doors in restaurants? And if not, aren’t they off limits to customers? The next argument may be that they might use the toilet inside. Should this happen, (which is unlikely because pet dogs are house-trained, and besides that, dogs are intelligent beings who are capable of knowing where not to pee) it’s not like a restaurant doesn’t have disinfectant. Well, let’s hope! And it would be incredible if the dog could manage to use the toilet on a table on top of someone’s meal. The last argument I can think of that wouldn’t be totally ridiculous is that employees may pet the dog and not wash their hands. Well, that one seems easily solvable to me: employees are restricted from petting dogs while on the clock.

The reason this is close to my heart is not just because I suffer from a lack of sleep in the summer months. The Americans With Disabilities Act protects service animals from being rejected from any and all establishments. And it is illegal to ask for proof that the animal is a service animal. So of course people abuse this legislation, and bring their dog places and simply say, “She’s a service dog.” Some people even put “service dog” vests on their non-service dog. I have never done this, nor do I condone it. What I do condone, is protecting the Disability law by helping people not abuse it.

There is no logical or health related reason that dogs should not be allowed in businesses that serve food. There was actually an “official” “study” done in 2013 that concluded that the health or safety risk posed by dogs inside restaurants is… yet to be determined (????!!!). Read it here. There is obviously a large misunderstanding of dog behavior reflected in these laws, and it’s time they were changed. I have no idea how to challenge this ordinance, but would like to start the official process, so if you know, please message me. Allowing dogs to be in more establishments would help almost everyone be calmer, happier, more balanced people.

I absolutely think that dogs must be required to be on a leash at all times inside establishments. And that if your dog displays inappropriate behavior (a lot of barking, growling, rough play, snapping, whining, etc) you should both be promptly ejected.

Will someone in Austin please open a coffee shop that is open all day and allows dogs indoors? With big comfy couches and chairs and great coffee and tea and pastries and soup and paninis? Please. I will donate as much as I possibly can!

With all that said, here’s my list of places you CAN bring your dog indoors. I live in the south, so this is for sure south-centric. But I’m on a mission to find all the establishments in Austin with air conditioning that allow dogs inside. If you know of any, please send them to me!

Cosmic Coffee and Beer
121 Pickle Rd, Austin, TX 78704
Sun - Fri 7am to 12pm
Sat 7am - 1am
WOW! Wow, wow, wow, is all I can say about this place. It is a slice of dog parent heaven, because is open all day and serves coffee as well as beer, and there are several food trucks to choose from. There are a few comfy seats in the back. It does get loud on the weekends inside, which some more timid dogs may not be completely comfortable with. The staff is very friendly. The patio is huge and beautiful. There is nothing not to like!

The Infinite Monkey Theorem
121 Pickle Rd, Austin, TX 78704 (across from Cosmic)
Mon - Fri 4pm - 10pm
Sat 2pm - 10pm
Sun 12pm - 8pm
This place is next to Cosmic and serves their own delightful wines by the tap, in cans and bottles. And I am literally writing this from here now. It’s lovely inside, and Michele at the bar, is delightful. I wish it opening in the mornings and served coffee and pastries! Because there are some great comfy couches and chairs. I love the rugs on the floor too. You can bring food from anywhere inside.

Skull Mechanix Brewing
1005 E St Elmo Rd bldg 2, Austin, TX 78745
Mon - Thur 3pm - 10pm
Fri 3pm - 11pm
Sat 1pm - 11pm
Sun 1pm - 10pm
This brewery is really pleasant and has great natural light. Mostly large tables with benches, but 3 tables with chairs. It has trivia on Thursday evenings. Board games and a food truck. Staff is very knowledgeable and friendly. I was served by Lee, who was lovely. The only thing that would make this place better is coffee and a couch!

Gibson Street Bar
1109 S Lamar Blvd, Austin, TX 78704
Mon - Fri 4pm - 2am
Sat 12pm - 2am
Sun 11:30am - 2am
I have only been here once. It can be loud and crowded, but since it opens on weekends at midday, it’s an option to go sit with your dog in some air conditioning. Great food truck outside.

Casino South Side
1502 W Ben White Blvd, Austin, TX 78704
Everyday 4pm - 2am
I have been here many a time. It’s one of my favorite bars in the country! It does have loud music, but doesn’t get too crowded inside, and there is a huge long comfy couch to sit on. If you’re going out for a drink instead of looking to just chill, this is a great option.

BuzzMill
1505 Town Creek Drive
Austin, TX, 78741
Open 24 hours
I have not been here yet! But it serves coffee and food and is open 24 hours! I’m not sure what the indoor seating is like, but it’s definitely a place I’m going to check out with my pup!

St. Roch’s
515 Pedernales St, Austin, TX 78702
Everyday 4pm - 2am
I’ve been here once and loved it. Because I love dive bars. It’s smallish inside, but there are table and chairs. And a cajun food truck out back. If you need a place to just meet up for a chill beer, this will work.

Grackle
1700 E 6th St, Austin, TX 78702
12pm - 2pm (I think every day)
I’ve been here very briefly once. Hipstery bar on the Eastside with a pool table and…… Air conditioning!!

Drinks Lounge
4511, 2001 E Cesar Chavez St, Austin, TX 78702
Mon - Fri 4pm - 2am
Sat 2pm - 2am
Sun 12pm - 2am
Another place to chill on the weekend days with Pup! I LOVE this bar! It’s everything. Divey, local, pool tables, good food, stiff drinks. Who wants to join me!?

4th Tap Brewing Co-Op
4520, 10615 Metric Blvd, Austin, TX 78758
Mon - Wed 4pm - 8pm
Thur 4pm - 12am
Fri & Sat 12am - 12pm
Sun 4pm - 8pm
Finally one up north. I haven’t been here, but I’m going. Anywhere that allows dogs inside is getting my business! They have a food truck outside.

Just added by reader Rachel C: Circle Brewing Co.

I wish I could add Radio to this list!!! So so so badly. Radio will let you carry your dog in while ordering and waiting for a drink. But not sit inside. I was told by an employee that “One dog pees, then all the dogs will pee.” Another example of the lack of understanding of dog behavior and intelligence. Radio only sells pastries. It’s ridiculous they aren’t allowed dogs inside. I also wish I could add Opa. I just want to sit in Opa drinking a coconut milk latte working on my laptop with my dog on my lap. Dream.

Honorable Patio Mentions

There are, as we all know and love, many patios in Austin, which are all, of course, dog friendly. I’m sure you’ve got your favorites already. There are also some great places with covered patios, which can offer a 5-8 degree less heat index for you and Pup. And some of these places have misting fans! Here are my favs for that:

The Park on South Lamar

The Little Darlin

Red’s Porch

The Anchor and Crown Pub

Contigo

Luster Pearl East

Just added: Sour Duck Market

There are several place downtown and on Rainey St. that will either allow dogs inside or on their big patios. But I wanted to make this slightly more user and chill-out friendly. For me, it’s all about finding a nice place to drive up to easily, relax with friends, read a good book, or get some work done.

Do you know of some more places? Please let me know! I would love to help dog parents find places to hang out with their dogs, so they aren’t left home alone.

 

A lot of people hire me because their dog has fear. Just like in humans, fear manifests in all kinds of ways. We can usually tell when our dog is afraid of something when they display classic fear behavior such as running, hiding, avoiding, and cowering and shaking. So that is easy to tell that our dog is just afraid of something. However, fear can also be manifested in aggression. When your dog is afraid of a person or another dog (or thing, for that matter, like a garbage truck or thunder) they may lunge at them, bark, snarl, growl, and attack. This is fear based aggression, which accounts for almost all aggression in dogs.

First and foremost, get a full vet examination to make sure your dog’s fear is not coming from any pain in their body.

Then figure out exactly what the fear is of, and when it started. Often with shelter dogs, there is no way to know this. So just observe carefully what the dog is showing fear based behaviors around.

It’s not easy to get your dog over a fear. Just like us, dogs don’t just decide overnight they will never be afraid of that creepy homeless man down the street, or all yellow labs, or loud thunder. It’s not an on/off switch, but boy do we wish it was! The trick to helping your dog on the road to letting go of their fear, is patience. Recognizing and accepting that it’s going to take time. Sometimes a lot of time. Once you have made peace with that, you are well on your way to a successful behavior modification. Many books and essays are written about dogs and fear. You can read up as much as you want on this, and I actually do recommend it if you are someone with a fearful dog, or someone that likes to adopt shelter dogs, especially dogs that are coming from another country where they lived on the streets. Nicole Wilde and Patricia McConnell are excellent authors of books about fearful dogs.

However, you will probably need to hire a dog trainer to help your dog with their fear. As I said, it’s not easy to know how to help a dog overcome a fear, and you will need the expertise of a professional. If your dog is a puppy, contact a trainer right away, so you don’t end up with a deep rooted fear. Your dog trainer will outline a behavior modification plan for you to follow very closely, and show you exactly how to use distance, intensity, and duration to gradually desensitize your dog to their fear. Over time, you will be altering the levels of these things, and a dog trainer is the best way to understand exactly how much to do it and how often. These are the keys to overcoming fear, the Big Three:

Distance: You will determine how close you can get to the “trigger” (thing your dog is afraid of) without your dog panicking and displaying fear. Is it 10 feet? Is it 30 feet? Watch your dog very closely and determine the exact distance and perimeter from the trigger you need.

Intensity: You will train your dog while they are at a low level of intensity. This means the dog is aware of the trigger nearby, but the trigger is not alarming them, just causing a low level of intensity, such as glancing over and looking a bit worried, but still able to look back at you when you call their name and offer a yummy tidbit of mashed up pig parts. 😉

Duration: Duration is extremely important. Your dog will not be able to tolerate being exposed to her trigger, even at a low intensity, for very long. It depends how long for each dog and each fear. You will practice exposure for short durations a few times a day.

These three things are things that dog trainers are trained to be able to determine very accurately, and often people who are not professionals will think they can figure these things out themselves, but they are not always correct, and end up causing more fear.

Your trainer will need to know what most excites your dog as far as rewards. Often it is very yummy treats like hot dogs, chicken, cheese, beef. Sometimes it’s a favorite toy or ball. You will need to spend time figuring out what it is.

This is a primer on understanding how to work with your fearful dog and get started on training.

 

Do you have a dog that is rather enthusiastic about life? Who jumps and bounces and pulls on the leash? Do you have Marley from the movie Marley and Me? Does your dog zoom around the house and yard, not listening to you, and pulling up plants, digging holes, barking at the neighbor dog? Does it all drive you kind of crazy and embarrass you? Do you sometimes lose your temper and yell at your dog and it either scares him or makes him think you’re joining in on the fun and excitement? Fear not. This is for you!

The thing your dog is lacking is impulse control.

It is kind of inspiring, though, to watch a being so consumed by joy, they can only go through life exuberantly, prancing and bouncing! But it’s not conducive to house dwelling and human cohabitation. It is not “mean” or “defeating” to teach a dog impulse control. It is simply communicating to them that they must control their impulses when you ask them to, but they may release them and be bouncy joyful beings when you give them permission as well. And again, dogs thrive under rules and boundaries. It provides a structure for life, a pattern, that gives them a peace and ease of mind.

It DOES require time and patience from you. But like all things you give your time and energy to, the pay off is there. And when the pay off is a harmonious co-existence with your dog for the rest of her years, it’s very worth it!

So now you are wondering how to teach your dog impulse control. Let’s begin!

Get some of your dog’s favorite treats together and make sure they are broken up into small pieces, just enough for your dog to taste them..

Stay inside your house. Put a leash on your dog (not a flexi-leash).

First Exercise:
Face your dog and wait until they look into your eyes.
Say “good girl!” And give her a treat as soon as she does.
Repeat this 8 times.
Give her about 5 or 6 treats as a “jackpot” reinforcer.
Take a 10 minute break.
Repeat.

Second Exercise:
This time, when your dog looks into your eyes say “SIT!” with gumption.
Wait.
If your dog does NOT sit, take the treat and hold it above his head and move it backwards, over her head. This is called a “lure” and should get your dog to lower his tush.
If he does NOT lower his tush, step to the side, still holding the leash, and gently curve his tush downwards.
Then say “good boy!” And give him the treat.
Repeat! (The same way as above).

Third Exercise:

Ask your dog to “SIT!” with gumption.
When your dog sits, count to 3.
Say “good girl!” And give her the treat.
Repeat this 4 times.
Then start counting to 5.
Repeat that 4 times.
Take a 10 minute break.
Repeat, adding 2 seconds every fourth practice.

If your dog breaks, and comes towards you, or dashes off sideways, stay calm. Just say “nooooo,” and lead her back to the spot she was sitting in and start again.

By now, I’m sure you’re getting the general idea! Your are VERY SLOWLY teaching your dog how to wait, because they know if they do, they get their favorite treat afterwards!

It’s important not to overload your dog. Learning too much too quickly is stressful and not helpful at all.

Short, spurts of sessions are how dogs (and humans actually too) learn.

Remember: whatever time you have to put into training is helpful. So if you don’t have time to do much in one day, don’t worry! Even ONE session is helpful.

Keep your cool, stay calm, practice patience. That is very important! Dog training is one third about patience! And have fun! It’s not about rushing to the finish line, it’s about having a good time bonding with your dog!

Aromatherapy is the use of scents derived from plants to influence mood, cognitive, physical and emotional well-being. Dogs can benefit from aromatherapy as much as humans can to aid with health and behavior and mood.

A lot of dogs have emotional issues, such as general or separation anxiety, fear of things like sounds (thunder), fear of people or other dogs, low confidence and self-esteem, etc.

To apply Aromatherapy, purchase an essential oil or candle which contains the scent that has been discovered to influence a particular element of health or emotion. An essential oil is an oil that is collected through distillation of a plant. You can purchase it at health food stores, grocery stores, holistic and metaphysical stores. It’s best to do research on the brands of essential oils that are organic and most ethical.

Essential oils have been studied to be safe for dogs, however, it’s important to have them diluted correctly and only use for short-term treatment (about 2 weeks). It is very much about the quality of the oil and dilution ratio. Some oils can possibly damage the liver, so do research and check with your vet. You can also consult aromatherpycounsel.org to discover more about using essential oils and which ones could possibly be cause harm if used too much.

Preparation of Essential Oils

First you will always dilute the oil, meaning combine it with a “base” oil like olive oil, coconut oil, sweet almond oil, avocado oil, argan oill. Never dilute it with water. For large and medium dogs, mix 1 drop of essential oil (when you buy the oil it will come with a mini suction tube, so you can squeeze in the oil, and let only one drop fall out) with 10 drops of base oil. For small dogs, mix one drop of essential oil with 25 drops of base oil. You can seal this mixture in a jar, and save it for future use.

Application of Essential Oils

Essential oils can be applied directly to your dog’s skin, or left nearby to fill the air. It is not recommend to let your dog consume essential oils.

Before applying to your dog’s skin, always test on your own skin. Then rub on your palms and gently wipe down your dog’s body.

When leaving out to permeate the air, a transmitter of wood or other natural material can be propped in a jar, with the oil at the bottom of the jar.

Below are some descriptions of the different issues that dogs face, and the oils that can help them.

Arthritis - Benzoin, Fennel, Juniper, Lemon

Allergy Relief - Niaouli, Peppermint, Lavender, Helichrysum, Chamomile

Confidence Building - If your dog has low confidence, she will often shy away from people and other dogs, as well as loud noises. She will be picked on by other dogs frequently. She will be scared of new environments and situations - such as a new house, or riding in a car, or being at an outdoor patio where people are eating and other dogs are present. Oils: Bergamot, Coriander Seed.

Dry Skin - Geranium, Sandalwood, Niaouli

Diarrhea - Peppermint

Ear Infections - Bergamot, Geranium, Niaouli

Fleas - Cedarwood, Lavender, Sweet Orange Peppermint

Generalized Anxiety and Fear of Noises - Clary Sage, Valerian, Lavender

Indigestion - Aniseed, Chamomile, Peppermint, Fennel

Pain Relief - Helichrysum, Roman Chamomile

Separation Anxiety - If your dog cries or is destructive or uses the bathroom inside when you leave him alone, try using Chamomile, Ginger, Lavender, Rosewood, Vanilla, Clary Sage, Valerian

Travel Sickness - Ginger

Please don’t rush out and buy a bottle of essential oil and douse your doggie with it! Do a bit more research on how to mix and apply them. You can also make a candle from your oils, or purchase candles which have the scent you want already. Pro Tip: try different ways of administering the oils before you conclude that they are not helping.

Important: The oils you use should be manufactured for the sole purpose of using for aromatherapy.

Some dogs may not experience much change, yet others will show a vast improvement. If you have tried pharmaceuticals and behavior modification training already, but are feeling hopeless or in need of something else to help, please consider essential oils as a natural and great smelling aid! They may also end up helping you with certain conditions as well!

There seems to consistently be stories in the media about children and babies getting bitten by dogs, sometimes fatally. And cats can also hurt kids. In fact, the Center for Disease Control and Prevention says that half of all kids under 12 will suffer from a dog bite (with the severest injuries occurring in 5 to 9 year olds) and that most of them are from dogs that the child is associated with, such as their family dog or neighbors dog.

 

Adopting a dog from a shelter is an environmentally friendly and compassionate thing to do. While there are lives at risk of euthanasia, it seems wrong to support the breeding of dogs.

The Canis lupus familiaris (the scientific name for “dog”) was domesticated from the wolf between 10 and 100,000 years ago. Humans intentionally bred the wolves to be useful to them. They picked them for their hunting, scenting, herding, retrieving, guarding, protecting livestock, etc.

As this breeding program progressed, the genetic make-ups of the dogs involved in the breeding became less and less diverse. It was not left to nature to decide which dogs bred and which puppies lived. By the 1900’s, the gene pool of all purebred dogs was too small and health problems starting popping up. Like tumors, cancer, allergies, skin conditions, mental health issues, and joint and bone issues. For example, the King Charles Cavalier Spaniel and the Brussels Griffon has been bred to look the way it does; with a small skull cavity. Which created a degenerative disease called Syringomyelia, which causes seizures and death because of lack of protection for the cerebellum. It’s estimated that up to 95% of this breed of dog have this disease, and sadly it is often ignored by dog breeders and dog competition regulators.

Breeders have no legal obligation to make sure they are breeding dogs that are free from medical or mental conditions. A lot of breeders sell medically compromised puppies for up to $2000.

The second case for adoption is simply overpopulation. The World Health Organization has lately reported that there are over 200 million stray dogs worldwide. Most street dogs are descended from domesticated dogs, and their instincts are not wild, yet they are often forced to live in the wild.

In the United States, Humane Societies are funded in part by our taxes so animals will be collected off the street and either adopted back out or euthanized. But even here in the US, where such public services exist, 1.2 million dogs are euthanized each year.

Dogs are very sentient beings. They have been studied to have the same sentient capabilities as a human toddler!

There are so many reasons for humans to live up to the responsibility of caring for the animals that they created. Domestic dogs are not designed to live wild on the streets. They have emotional needs that only humans can meet. Not to mention the poor quality of life that many purebred dogs must suffer, simply so they can look aesthetically pleasing to humans.

Please consider the ethical and compassionate act of adopting a shelter dog.